Beautiful S-shaped cookies

One of the great joys of growing up Italian-American, I think specifically in the New York metropolitan area, is the special time with extended family children have on the regular. I’m talking dressing up a little, driving a couple of hours and going to eat an awkwardly timed meal (say, 3pm on a Sunday) at your great aunt’s house. Oftentimes in these situations there’s plastic on the furniture. There’s definitely nothing for children to play with. After dessert there may very well be card playing, but not the kind for kids. But most of all there’s the food, which is served in a pretty tight rotation of Old World favorites and standbys. Some of the most nostalgic for me are the cookies – always from the Italian bakery in town and always softer than they should be because they’re stale.

The usual suspects

This is the freshly baked version of my favorite of those cookies – the slightly lemony S’s, made with polenta for a bit of textural interest. And while they honestly could not be simpler to prepare, their shape does lend them a bit of fanciness, and a number of people asked me rather incredulously how I had gotten them that shape. Answer: not by magic, but by piping bag! Gets them every time.

Stirring up the dry ingredients

Butter and sugar

Dough coming together

I think you can probably tell, but these are not the cookies you unveil for your dessert finale for guests, unless, of course, you’re an 85-year-old Italian nonna, in which case you can get away with just about anything. But what they do better than, I would argue, almost any other cookie is accompany a piping hot cup of tea or coffee in the mid-afternoon, which is how I enjoyed a great many of them. And I’m happy to report, they also get better with age! Now, as discussed earlier, not TOO much age, but a day or two after I baked these I was enjoying them more than I had when they were straight out of the oven, and that’s saying a lot.

Piping bag magic

Piping them out

As we’re on the topic of baking, I do have some sad news to report that I am still coming to terms with. Last week, while my building’s boiler was being replaced, the crew discovered and reported a small gas leak. So I am now, very unfortunately, completely without gas for the foreseeable future, which means no baking, no roasting, no cooking anything that I can’t manage on my new (but sad) double hotplate. I’m pretty devastated but in the meantime while I wait for the gas to be turned back on / search for a new apartment with a larger kitchen (!), I’m going to do my best to still deliver you interesting recipes despite the current limitations. I hope you understand!

Best enjoyed with a mug of tea

Italian Polenta Cookies

Servings: Makes about 2 1/2 dozen cookies

Ingredients

  • 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup Italian polenta or coarse yellow cornmeal
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 2/3 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
  • 1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Whisk together flour, polenta and salt in a bowl.
  2. Put butter, sugar and lemon zest in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment; beat on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add egg and egg yolk, one at a time, beating after each addition to combine. Mix in vanilla. Gradually add flour mixture and beat until just combined. Transfer batter to a pastry bag fitted with a 7/16-inch star tip (such as Ateco #825).
  3. Pipe S shapes about 3 inches long and 1 inch wide. spacing 1 1/2 inches apart on baking sheets lined with parchment. Chill in freezer until dough is firm, about 30 minutes. Bake cookies until edges are golden, 15 to 18 minutes, rotating sheets halfway through. Transfer cookies on parchment to wire racks; let cool about 10 minutes. Remove cookies from parchment and transfer to racks to cool completely. Cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 1 week.

Notes

https://www.thekitchenchronicles.com/2016/04/27/italian-polenta-cookies/