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We are squarely in the middle of winter. The holidays feel long gone but spring is not even remotely around the corner yet, and from now until the end of March there are so many root vegetables to eat and get tired of eating.  In the name of mixing things up in the bleakest time of the year, I’m working on cooking more meat – roasting and braising. It’s not as though I don’t eat meat (I would say I prepare it once a week but eat it maybe every other day), but when I do it’s not usually the centerpiece of the dish – more like just another ingredient. So in the name of a challenge, I decided that instead of starting out with the goal of perfecting a roast chicken like a normal, reasonable person, I’d make stuffed quail.

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Operation Quail was a little daunting from the get-go because it felt weird to make such a seemingly elaborate dish for myself to enjoy in front of the TV while marathoning Netflix. So the first order of business was procuring a quail eating partner, which took about one minute and came in the form of one very best and quail-loving friend. The recipe that I’d chosen served six, so I decided to cut it in half and tackle six quails, two for each of us and some leftovers. Next, I set out to acquire the quail themselves.  I started my research a few days in advance and checked my local Fairway, which did have some quail hidden in the oddball “other meats” section. But they looked kind of funny and not particularly fresh, so I got fancy and called Citarella to special order six ½-pound quail. I picked up my carefully wrapped quail two days later feeling pretty sophisticated and rather like Ina Garten.

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Overall, I have to say that the idea of cooking quail and the procurement of said quail was much more intimidating than the actual preparation of this delicious meal that is sure to impress literally everyone you know. The stuffing is very easy to prepare. The quail are easy to stuff.  The braising process is incredibly forgiving and basically impossible to mess up. The one thing I will note is that preparing six tiny birds kind of weirded me out in a way that manhandling a chicken does not…something about those little legs was a little disconcerting, but it was easily overcome when I imagined them all toasty and golden and tender. The result was so worth it – quail is not game-y at all (much less so than a Cornish game hen, though you can also substitute those) and the red wine mingled with the bell peppers and bacon in the stuffing makes a rich gravy that is to die for.

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The moral of this story is that it feels really good to accomplish something that seems intimidating at first. If these little guys weren’t so expensive I can easily imagine myself gnawing on a quail leg any day of the week while plowing through whatever television I happen to be watching (can you tell I’m in winter hibernation mode?). Or, casting myself in a less embarrassing light, I can see myself serving these to my next dinner guests, whoever they may be.

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Conley's Braised Stuffed Quail

Servings: Serves 6

Ingredients

  • 2 cups water
  • 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 2 cups red onions, diced (about 2 large onions)
  • 1 1/2 cups red bell pepper, diced (about 1 large pepper)
  • 1 1/2 cups green bell pepper, diced (about 1 large pepper)
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
  • 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
  • Twelve 8 oz quail or six 1 1/4 - 1 1/2-lb game hens
  • 1/4 lb slab bacon or 4 slices thick-cut bacon, diced
  • 1/2 cup canola oil
  • 2 cups carrots, diced (about 2 large carrots)
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
  • 3 1/2 cups chicken broth
  • 1 cup full-bodied red wine, such as Syrah, Merlot or a Bordeaux blend
  • 2 slices stale bread or toast, cut into a 1/4-inch dice
  • Juice of one large lemon

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
  2. In a small saucepan, bring 2 cups of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add 2 teaspoons salt, half the onions, half the red bell pepper and half the green bell pepper. Boil for 3 minutes, or until the diced vegetables have slightly lightened in color and are just tender. Drain and reserve in a medium bowl.
  3. In a large bowl, mix the flour with the remaining salt and pepper. Dredge the quail in the mixture, turning to coat thoroughly. Shake off any excess. Set the quail aside and reserve any unused dredge.
  4. Scatter the bacon in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet and sauté over medium-high heat, moving the pieces around with a slotted spoon until the bacon is firm and just golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the blanched vegetables and reserve. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons bacon fact and reserve the surplus. Add the quail to the skillet in batches, taking care not to crowd the pan, and cook until golden brown all over, 2 to 3 minutes per side (add reserved bacon fat or extra oil 1 tablespoon at a time if the skillet becomes too dry). Transfer the browned quail to a 16-x-22-inch roasting pan, placing them breast side up.
  5. Reduce the heat under the skillet to medium low and add the oil. Measure the reserved dredge and add enough flour to make 1/4 cup, then add to the oil, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or a whisk to prevent it from scorching. Cook until the flour is toasty and café-au-lait in color, about 6 minutes.
  6. Raise the heat to medium-high, and add the remaining onions and red and green bell peppers, carrots, and 1 tablespoon thyme to the skillet. Cook, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes, until the vegetables are slightly softened. Add 3 cups chicken broth and the wine and bring to a simmer. Simmer vigorously for 2 to 3 minutes to let the flavors meld.
  7. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon thyme and the bread to the bowl containing the blanched vegetables and bacon, and gently toss with a wooden spoon. Pour the remaining 1/2 cup stock in a thin stream evenly over the contents of the bowl, then squeeze the lemon juice over them. Toss until the ingredients are evenly moistened. Fill the cavity of each quail with the stuffing.
  8. When all the quail have been stuffed and returned to the roasting pan, pour the wine and vegetable mixture over them, cover with aluminum foil and bake for 40 minutes (1 hour for game hens), or until the juices run clear with the skin about the thigh joint is pierced (baste at the halfway mark, or every 20 minutes for game hens). Remove the quail from the oven and let rest in the pan for 10 minutes. Season the braising liquid to taste with salt and black pepper.
  9. Serve on large plates - 2 quail or 1 game hen per guest - and pour a ladleful of the braising liquid over them.

Notes

https://www.thekitchenchronicles.com/2015/01/22/braised-stuffed-quail/