First off, I’d like to say that I did not mean to alarm anyone with my chocolate cookies for the workaholic’s soul post last week… I received quite a few very sweet messages asking if I was alright after I proclaimed that the world was out to get me. I am happy to report that the week of doom passed and I am moving onwards and upwards, though no thanks to the weather, which is dumping freezing rain onto NYC as I write this. The sheer number of winter storms we have experienced this season and the fact that Punxsutawney Phil saw his shadow on Sunday have inspired me share this delicious chicken satay with you. Hopefully it will remind you of tropical climates and provide some consolation that, despite all evidence to the contrary, winter will eventually end.
This chicken satay is also about overcoming kitchen adversity, which, for me, has always been about the broiler. As someone with no outdoor space besides a fire escape, the option to grill is sadly lacking in my life, and the broiler is usually the suggested alternative. However, it is a rare event that something goes into the hellfire under the oven without erupting in flames and/or setting off the smoke alarm. Most often both! I’m thrilled to report that these chicken skewers, despite being strung onto wooden sticks, came out of the broiler flame free and perfectly charred.
This is a surprisingly easy recipe to put together, though it is contingent on two things. First, you’ll need access to lemongrass, which is usually sold in well-stocked grocery stores. Other than that, none of these ingredients are difficult to source. Galangal, a sort of wild ginger, is optional. I’ll admit I did not use it, only because I bought it a few days early, froze it but then forgot to defrost it in advance, and was left with a giant galangal rock.
The second key to the satay is a small food processor. If you put these ingredients into a very large one, you are not going to be able to grind it into a smooth paste, because the lemongrass is very sturdy stuff.
Chicken satay is a great party food, because who doesn’t like eating things off sticks, and it’s also a great dinner served with a side of stir-fried vegetables (I made some bok choy with chiles). Either way, you can’t beat tender chicken with just the right amount of char, and a sweet and tangy satay marinade that makes you believe you are in the South Pacific. Just ignore the sound of the freezing rain on the windowsill…
Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
- 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
- 2 thick stalks lemongrass
- 5 shallots (3 3/4 ounces total), coarsely chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
- 1 piece fresh or thawed, frozen galangal, 1 inch long, peeled and thinly sliced against the grain (optional)
- 1 piece fresh ginger, 2 inches long, peeled and thinly sliced against the grain (about 2 tablespoons)
- Scant 1 tablespoon ground turmeric
- 4 tablespoons palm sugar, thinly sliced, or dark brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons peanut oil
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 3 1/4 pounds bone-in chicken thighs
- 1 thick stalk lemongrass
- 4 tablespoons peanut oil
- About 30 sharp, think 10-inch bamboo skewers, soaked in water for at least 30 minutes and drained
Instructions
- Place the coriander and fennel seeds into a small food processor. Pulse until ground to a dusty powder, about 2 minutes. Do not remove the ground spices from the food processor.
- Cut off the hard, brown bottom end and the bristly, greenish top of each lemongrass stalk, which should leave you with pale white and lilac pieces about 5 inches long. Remove the tough outer layers and thinly slice the lemongrass into rings, no thicker than 1/16 inch.
- Add the lemongrass, shallots, garlic, galangal (if using), ginger, turmeric, palm sugar, peanut oil and salt to the ground spices in the food processor. Pulse until you have a smooth paste the consistency of creamy mashed potatoes, making sure that the lemongrass is well pulverized. If the paste doesn't purée properly and moves up the side of the food processor instead of grinding, add up to 2 tablespoons of water, one at a time. Transfer the marinade to a bowl large enough to hold all of the chicken.
- Remove the skin from each chicken thigh. Cut the meat away from the bone, keeping the meat as whole as possible.
- Cut the chicken meat into pieces each about 1 inch wide and 1/4 to 1/3 inch thick. Each piece should ideally be 2 to 3 inches long.
- Add the sliced chicken to the bowl and combine it well with the marinade, making sure that every piece is coated. Allow the chicken to marinate at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours, tossing several times to make sure the marinade is evenly dispersed.
- Prepare the lemongrass stalk to use as a basting brush. Cut off the hard, brown bottom end and its bristly top, which leaves you with a 10 inch piece. Discard the 2 or 3 tough outer layers, then bruise the thick end of the stalk with a heavy, blunt object, such as a wooden handle of a knife or the bottom of a glass measuring cup, until it is bristly and brushlike. Place the bruised end in a small bowl along with the peanut oil. Let this more flavorful end of the stalk rest for about 10 minutes in the oil, so that the lemongrass flavor permeates the oil. Reserve the lemongrass and oil for basting.
- Thread the chicken strips onto the presoaked bamboo skewers, weaving the point of each skewer through the center of each piece of chicken about every 1/2 inch to make sure it holds tight and remains secure as it cooks. Use 1 to 4 pieces of chicken per skewer, depending on how long the pieces are. Leave plenty of room at the bottom of the skewer uncovered so you can grab easily, only covering the middle to one end of the skewer in chicken.
- To cook on a grill: First prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire and oil the grill rack liberally. When the fire is ready (it may take up to 15 minutes), place each skewer on the grill, making sure that the chicken, not the skewer, is directly over the heat. Using the bruised end of the lemongrass lightly baste the chicken with the lemongrass oil. Grill the chicken until it is cooked through and has begun to pick up a few crispy brown-black spots, 3 to 7 minutes; the timing will depend on how hot the fire is. Lightly baste each piece with the lemongrass oil again. Turn the skewers over. Baste them with the lemongrass oil and continue grilling until the other side is similarly browned, another 3 to 6 minutes. Test the chicken by touching it with your finger- it should be firm, not squishy.
- To cook in the broiler: Position a rack so that the satay skewers will be 3 inches from the heat source and preheat the broiler for at least 10 minutes. Line a half-sheet pan with aluminum foil. Place the skewers on the pan, arranging them so that the meat is in the center of the pan and the ends of the skewers hang slightly over the side (you can put aluminum foil collars over the ends of the skewers to prevent them from scorching). Using the bruised lemongrass, baste each skewer generously with the lemongrass oil. Slide the pan into the broiler. Broil until the chicken begins to turn golden brown and develops a few char spots, 5 to 7 minutes. Test a piece by touching it with your finger- the chicken should be firm, not squishy. Do not overcook the chicken, as it will dry out quickly- if it doesn't char, don't worry. As long as it is cooked through it will be tasty.
- Transfer the stay to a serving dish and let the skewers rest until they're cool enough to handle, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.
Notes
From Cradle of Flavor
