I swear it’s not because of writer’s block, but I’m going to discuss the weather AGAIN, since it’s all any of us here in NYC are talking about. “Can you believe this weather?” has become way more than just a pleasantry at this point, it’s a question I really want to know the answer to. On Friday afternoon it was 75 degrees and I zipped into my favorite wine shop and loudly declared “It’s rosé season!” By Friday evening, every New Yorker was out on the sidewalk trying cram into whatever restaurant wasn’t already completely booked for the night. Not wanting to fight the crowds, some fellow Upper West Siders came by and inspired us to take the layers (and layers and layers) of tarps and plastic off of our outdoor furniture, aggressively chill the stockpiled rosé and order a veritable feast of Korean food. By Sunday, it was 45 degrees and raining.
The only thing to do in situations of frenetic weather like this one we’re in now is to simply will the weather you want. On Saturday, I stored away all of my winter clothes and broke out the shorts. Does that mean I have nothing to wear this week? Yes, it sort of does, but it felt like I was setting my expectations and allowing the atmosphere to comply. It also means eating for spring rather than winter. I would not be against throwing on a few layers this week and breaking out the grill, just to show these clouds who’s boss.
The bottom line here, besides that I guess I believe in manifesting the kind of weather you want to see, is that it is time for some BRIGHT food that’s forward looking, even if we’re surrounded by cold temps and torrential rain. It’s taking some time but the produce aisles and farmers markets are getting every so slightly greener and boy, do I miss eating those vegetables.
This Swiss chard is such a sleeper hit of a side dish. Like…it’s just swiss chard, which is really not my favorite leafy green anyway, but the preparation gives it such depth of flavor. Have you ever ordered plates of greens when you’re out to dim sum? I did in Hong Kong, and I could not believe how flavorful and frankly addictive they were. This dish is like that- bright, complex, deeply savory, and just perfect for spring.
Ingredients
- 14 oz. thick-stemmed Swiss chard
- 3 tablespoons cooking oil, or 1 1/2 tablespoons lard and 1 1/2 tablespoons cooking oil
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Sichuanese chili bean paste
- 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
- 2 teaspoons finely chopped ginger
- 1 1/2 tablespoons fermented black beans, rinsed and drained
- 1/2 cup chicken stock or water
- 3 tablespoons finely chopped celery (Chinese celery if possible)
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
- 2 tablespoons finely sliced scallions
Instructions
- Cut the dark green chard leaves from the stems. Snap each stem into a few pieces, which will allow you to peel away and discard the stringy bits, as you would with celery.
- Bring a potful of water to a boil, add the stems and boil for about three minutes, until tender. Add the dark green leaves and boil for another minute or so until they are also cooked. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Squeeze the chard dry, then cut into bite-sized lengths.
- Pour the oil into a seasoned wok over a medium- flame, swirl it around, then add the chili bean paste and stir-fry until it smells delicious and the oil is richly red. Add the garlic, ginger and black beans and stir-fry for a few moments more until you can smell their fragrances. Then add the stock, bring to a boil, add the chard and stir until it is piping hot once more.
- Finally, stir in the celery, cilantro and scallions, stir a few times, then serve.
Notes
From Every Grain of Rice
