I came across this recipe a few weeks ago and was embarrassed to discover, as a self-proclaimed sophisticated francophile, that I did not know what a panade was. But as a lover of all things French, rustic and covered with melted cheese, I knew this was something I had to try.
Since my initial run-in with the panade, I still haven’t come across a great definition of what one actually is, so I’ll just describe it you. Basically it’s like a savory bread pudding with melted cheese on the top, so all the bites are a little different: some are smooth and custardy, some are crispy and caramelized. It is the perfect dinner for a cold winter’s night in a rural French cottage, or in your own home, wherever that may be.
I think there are probably a million and one ways to make a panade your own, as long as you stick to the ratio of liquid to bread to filling. This recipe itself provides some leeway to use the types of greens you are into eating. I am an arugula lover, so I used a combination of that, spinach and chard and loved the result, but you can definitely be creative here.
Perhaps the panade’s best selling point, besides its ability to transport you and whoever is eating it with you to the French countryside in your minds, is its simplicity. The most difficult thing you will have to do here is cube a loaf of bread and grate some slightly smelly French cheese, and if you’ve ever cooked anything I’ve posted on this site in the past, I think you have that in you.
When I removed my panade-filled Le Creuset (by this point in the dinner-making process I had become fully indoctrinated by my cookbook and basically believed myself to be French) from the oven, I was quite pleased with myself. Smug, even. My rustic ingredients had transformed into a real beauty. Cubes of bread in various states of toasted were sticking out of the top and the cheese had become a beautiful golden brown. I believe it is beneath a French person’s dignity to pick off the crispiest bits from around the outside of the pot and sample them, so I maintained my self control until I was ready to serve. It was not an easy feat, and by the time the panade was on my plate, all sophistication was long gone. I ate this like an animal.
Note: This recipe does not take much work at all but is slow, so start preparing early in the day for dinner.
Ingredients
- 3 large leeks (white and light green parts only), chopped
- 1 red onion, chopped
- 8 to 10 garlic cloves, sliced
- 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
- Salt
- 1-lb. loaf of stale chewy bread with crust (I used ciabatta)
- 1 1/2 lbs. mixed leafy green (sorrel, chard, parsley leaves, arugula, spinach and watercress), de-ribbed and shredded (about 10 cups)
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- Freshly ground pepper
- Grated nutmeg
- 3 cups whole milk, heated to simmering
- 1/2 lb. Cantal or Gruyère cheese
Instructions
- Measure the leeks, onion and garlic to be sure you have about 1 quart
- In a 7- or 8-quart pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Slowly stew the leeks, onion and garlic for 10 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon salt and cook for 5 more minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 250°F.
- Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes. You should have about 2 quarts. Spread the cubes in one layer on an oiled baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes, or until just golden. Let cool and store until ready to use.
- Add the greens to the pot, cover and cook over low heat for 45 minutes. Uncover and boil away excess liquid. Allow to cool. Add the lemon juice pepper and nutmeg to taste. Correct the salt. (Up until this point the recipe can be prepared 1 day in advance. Cool, cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before continuing.)
- About 2 1/2 hours before serving, oil a deep 3-quart casserole, preferably earthenware. Place one-third of the bread cubes in the dish, top with half the greens, and repeat, ending with the bread cubes and patting lightly to make an even topping. Gradually pour the hot milk down the insides and over the top of the panade so everything is moist. If necessary, add 1/2 cup water. Cover with the grated cheese and a sheet of foil.
- Bake in a preheated 250°F oven for 1 3/4 hours. Raise the oven temperature to 400°F, uncover and bake 20 more minutes. Remove the oven and allow to relax for about 10 minutes before serving.
Notes
Adapted from The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen
