The oft-maligned cauliflower – pushed to the side of children’s plates with its cousin, broccoli, and historically viewed by us grown-ups as a bit wan and tasteless – has really found itself in the spotlight of late. Turns out, steaming a bowl of the stuff is always going to smell kind of funny and taste pretty bland, but roasting it until it’s a shade somewhere between very golden and burnt or smothering it in breadcrumbs and butter is a whole other story. Cauliflower might be subtle, but that makes it a fantastic vessel for any number of other flavors.