I didn’t think I had any pre-conceived notions before I went to Russia, but even so, it somehow managed to be a place that I just did not expect it to be, at all. Architecturally and naturally stunning, infuriating, familiar, cosmopolitan, utterly foreign and, above all, deeply proud. Full of contradictions. Worth every second.

You can’t really wing a trip to Russia from the United States; it takes some planning. You need to obtain a visa before heading over, and to do that, you need an “invitation” to visit. This sounds more intimidating than it is- it’s something most any hotel will provide you. You add that invitation to your collection of documents and photos, get a bunch of cash and head over to the consulate or an agency that deals with the consulate. As you might expect, no one who works there will be particularly friendly, but the process overall was much easier than I expected, and even when I considered the price of the visa, the cost of getting to Russia was pretty cheap (airfare tends to be incredibly low!).

The single piece of insight I wish I’d had before I took my trip was that Russians do not believe in smiling out of politeness. I’m not kidding or exaggerating, and I only found out about this once I was back from my trip, and it explained just about everything. I spent nearly every interaction with Russians trying to convey my friendliness through excessive smiling, which undoubtedly led many to believe that I was insincere or just plain dumb. Basically, just expect everyone to be fairly obliging to you but they’re not going to look happy doing it.

Russia can also be a frustrating place to get around. The Cyrillic alphabet is a challenge (sometimes a map will use the Latin alphabet but the signs are in Cyrillic) and that makes subways and trains tricky. Most people do not speak any English and at times it was tough to get help. But the incredible sights I ended up being able to see and the mind-blowing food I ate every single day were totally worth the extra effort and periodic frustrations. It also led to some funny and bizarre interactions along the way, like when my friend and I kept running into another pair of girls in two different cities (in restaurants and museums) and on a bus to the middle of nowhere (basically they were somehow taking the exact same trip that we were at the same time), or when we accidentally bought train tickets on a sleeper train and a friendly, fatherly Siberian arms dealer and his wife took us under their wing for the 5-hour, un-air conditioned journey (more on that later). Russia is truly an adventure, and I barely even scraped the surface.

The landscape is stunning, directly out of a fairy tale. Golden-domed churches poke out above just about every cluster of buildings. There are wooden houses with carved window panes à la the witch in Hansel and Gretel. The food is some of the most delicious, inventive and just plain comforting I’ve ever eaten (I could eat pelmeni just about every single day). The museums are completely over the top, practically spilling over with wealth and opulence – juxtaposed by a very blasé attitude towards protecting it. Visiting Russia – learning about its history and culture – made me understand Russians and their beliefs a lot better.

The truth is, Russia is an incredibly interesting place based on nearly all criteria– its natural beauty, culture, food and people. And the truth is also that, despite the current political climate, I can’t wait to get back to this amazing country and explore it some more.

Here was our ten-day itinerary:
Moscow
St. Petersburg

Moscow

St. Petersburg gets all the attention, probably because it’s become a stop on Baltic Sea cruises and has a more European air about it. But Moscow was the city that really stole my heart. Maybe it’s because it reminded me a bit of New York- it’s a little rough around the edges, not very forgiving, but completely cosmopolitan and very chic. Also, VERY Russian. And while Moscow wasn’t nearly as geared towards tourists as St. Petersburg, I did not find it difficult to make my way around the city, with a little research in my back pocket. Moscow is enormous and sprawling, and laid out on a ring road plan. You’ll find that you’ll spend most of your time eating and sightseeing in the innermost ring, but the metro is also pretty user friendly to get to sights further out, and Uber is also readily available (we made good use of this throughout the trip). It’s also a city that people walk in, which I always appreciate. With day trips, I could have easily spent 5-6 days here, but only had four. So take that into account when you plan your trip– Moscow is highly underrated!

Where We Stayed:
Assambleya Nikitskaya Hotel. This was a bit more of a “budget” trip than others I’ve taken, so bear that in mind with my accommodation recommendations. That said, this was a very good mid-range hotel option in an excellent area of Moscow. Location is key in this city– the closer to Red Square the better, if you want to be able to walk to see sights, have dinner, etc. Nikitskaya is tucked just off the main thoroughfare that leads directly into Red Square, on a quieter parallel street. It’s flanked on both sides by chic eateries, many of which we sampled for breakfast and dinner. The staff was very friendly and moved our room when, after the first night, we were kept awake by construction (not their fault; in summer of 2016 the entire city was a literal construction site). They also helped us with some good lunch recommendations upon our arrival in from the airport. If you’re not on a Four Seasons Red Square budget, this is a perfectly decent place to spend a few days.

What We Ate:
White Rabbit. One of the crown jewels of my Russia experience, and of all my food travels in general: White Rabbit is an absolute spectacle. I made reservations exactly a month in advance and got a table for two on a Saturday night. When we arrived, they were filming the episode of Chef’s Table (at the table next to ours!) so it very well may be even tougher to get a reservation now. HOWEVER. It is so worth it, and you must do the tasting menu. It is not cheap, but eating your way through 14 courses of sheer brilliance is not to be missed. It’s an immersive experience of the chef’s extremely modern interpretation of Russian food history, and it’s not done in a way that’s too over-the-top to be enjoyable. Everything has a story and everything is delicious. The restaurant is difficult to find (it’s on the top floor of a department store, not in the heart of the city) but it sits in a glass dome with 360-degree views of Moscow as the sun sets. It’s also bizarrely Alice in Wonderland-themed, which normally I would find incredibly tacky but somehow it all works. If you can get a reservation, take this opportunity to put on something nice and go along for the culinary ride. It’s not something you’re ever going to forget.

Ugolek. I’d gotten this recommendation from a friend before leaving for Russia, and did not realize until my arrival that it was conveniently located just next door to our hotel. Ugolek is the restaurant of a well-known chef and looks like a hip spot you might find in Brooklyn. The menu is fabulous, with lots of delicious starter options and solid meat courses (we did the burger and duck, both were excellent). Also, great drinks. If the weather is nice, the front of the restaurant is open to the street and there are a few spots outside– it’s a great place to grab a long, lingering lunch or dinner with a side of people watching. Highly recommend for a casual but elevated meal.

Coffeemania. Coffeemania is a chain restaurant with the lamest name that does not even begin to describe what kind of restaurant it is. But Coffeemania became one of our favorite (albeit slightly pricey) spots for breakfast and light dinners/lunches. It’s got a slightly health food vibe going on, with great oatmeals and interesting smoothies on the menu. The outpost across the street from our hotel had an adorable porch, where we sat for some perfectly poured Aperol spritzes in the evening, accompanied by great salads and even some very good meat dishes. We found this to be a great spot to relax in the morning or to grab a quick bite before our evening at the opera (more on that below).

Odessa Mama. There is something deeply comforting about Russian food (all those dumplings and hearty rye breads), but the fare at Odessa Mama brings comfort food to the next level. The theme is Eastern European/Jewish food (Odessa is in the Ukraine, right on the Black Sea) and features great apps – heavy on things like pickled fish – and seafood in general. It’s not in the hustle and bustle of Moscow, it’s tucked in a quiet, leafy neighborhood near the Arbat district, and has plenty of outdoor seating under the trees. We had lunch here one day and declared it some of the best food we’d had. The prices are also incredibly reasonable for the quality. We shared a few dishes, which I’d recommend, and don’t be scared of the herring plate (vorschmack)– it’s excellent.

Khachapuri. I’d read beforehand that Moscow is full of places to eat great food that we don’t have great access to here in the US– including the foods of Central Asia (the Stans) and the Caucasus. So finding some good Georgian food was at the top of my to-do list, and boy did we find it. Khachapuri has a few locations throughout the city (there’s also one right next to Odessa Mama) but we chose the one right off of Tverskaya St. (one of the main thoroughfares into Red Square). We got a seat outside (and some blankets for our laps) and proceeded to order food for a party of 6, for a party of 2. It was a struggle but we ate all of it because it was outstanding. If you aren’t familiar with Georgian food, the highlights are the stews (lots of walnuts), the khachapuri (namesake of the restaurant, they are like canoe-shaped cheesy breads sometimes with an egg cracked on top) and khinkali, or plump twirly-topped dumplings that come with a variety of fillings. You must get all of these things. There’s also tons of eggplant, salty sheep’s cheese and kebabs. Get all of that stuff, too.

What We Did:
Red Square. You haven’t seen Moscow if you haven’t visited the iconic Red Square. Flanked by the extraordinary spires of the Kremlin buildings, the bright onion domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral, the State Historical Museum, the GUM store and Kazan Cathedral, this central plaza will impress even the most jaded traveler. It is incredibly regal and pictures simply do not do it justice. Visit at least for the photo op, if not to walk through the extraordinarily decorated GUM store or to see Lenin’s mummified body.

Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts. Moscow is full of great museums (I’m still kicking myself for missing the State Historical Museum and the State Central Museum of Contemporary History of Russia) but the Pushkin is probably its best known. As I’ve discussed before, I like to visit art museums with a strategy to avoid museum fatigue, so we kept our visit to the Pushkin short. One thing to note is that there are three separate buildings, and the area you probably want to focus on is 19th and 20th century European and American art. The main building is home to a lot of plaster casts, which, while interesting, were not quite the same as seeing the real thing.

Bolshoi Theatre. If you have a free evening in Moscow, I can think of few things more worthwhile than taking in a performance at the Bolshoi. It houses the opera, ballet and orchestra, and is a stunning piece of architecture in its own right (think red velvet and gold opulence everywhere you look). Getting tickets online is a breeze, and they are fairly reasonably priced. We saw the opera Boris Godunov on the historic (read: gorgeous) stage, and had an absolute blast. There were English subtitles, thank goodness, because Russian history is hard enough to follow in one’s own language, and it was wonderful to learn more about the Romanovs right at the source. The sets were incredible and, even better, the audience seemed genuinely enthralled with the performance, which really made it fun to be a part of. I can’t recommend a trip to the Bolshoi enough.

St. Basil’s Cathedral. When you think of Moscow, St. Basil’s Cathedral, with its multi-colored onion domes, is probably what comes to mind. Built in the 16th century, this iconic church is a gorgeous photo op on the outside, but the inside is also worth a visit. The walls and ceilings of the various rooms are colorfully and intricately painted, and have a very Russian-folk-art style meets Candyland.

The Kremlin + Armory Museum. The Kremlin complex is far and away the most popular tourist attraction in Moscow, and for good reason. The Kremlin is a closed area that’s home to a number of important churches, museums and government-related buildings. Because there are so many sights to see inside, it’s worth half a day of your time to see it all. I’d highly recommend buying tickets online in advance, otherwise you will have to stand on a ticket line as well as a line to get into the complex. If you do decide to buy tickets onsite, make sure you arrive early in the day– the ticket office opens an hour before the Kremlin does. But whether you have to wait in line or not, your visit will still be worth it. The churches are magnificent, all with shiny golden domes and rich histories of consecrating tsars. Your Kremlin ticket will get you inside each one. But my favorite part of the Kremlin, by a longshot, was the Armory Museum. It’s a separate ticket but completely worth it. I admit, the idea of visiting the Armory wasn’t immediately appealing but I’d read that it was a must-see so decided to spend the time. All I can say is – WOW. It’s the most spectacular collection of treasures, from jewels and swords to a room filled with Romanov horse-drawn carriages, to clothing worn by Catherine the Great. Easily one of my favorite museums in the world!

Novodevichy Convent. One morning we left the hustle and bustle of downtown Moscow, hopped on its very clean, functional and beautiful metro (seriously– some of the stations have extravagant chandeliers) and rode out to the suburbs to see Novodevichy Convent. If you’re feeling less adventurous, an Uber is also a great way to get there, but it was an easy walk from the Sportivnaya metro stop. If you love beautiful churches and Russian history, this is a must-visit. There are several gorgeous churches with shiny golden domes in a quiet, woodsy setting that seemed worlds away from the city. The convent is surrounded by fortress walls and is the place where Ivan the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia during the Streltsy rebellion. But today, it’s a peaceful respite from the city and a beautiful spot to enjoy a quiet morning.

Day trip to the Golden Ring. Perhaps one of the best things you can do when visiting Moscow is to get out of Moscow. It’s true that Moscow and St. Petersburg are quite different and you’ll experience that contrast visiting both. But the Russian countryside is something else entirely, and not to be missed. While I would have loved to have rented a car and spent a few days out of the city, we opted instead for a day trip to Suzdal, one of the towns in the “Golden Ring” – a ring of ancient cities northeast of the capital. Some, like Vladimir, are an easy train ride from Moscow, but I had my eye on picturesque Suzdal, which is a train to Vladimir followed by a 30-minute bus ride. Logistically, it was a little tough, and to make this trip worth it, you’ll need to leave very early in the morning. But Suzdal is such a gem. It has a Kremlin fortress, five monasteries and about a bajillion beautiful churches, not to mention a little market in the town’s center where babushkas are selling mushrooms and pickles. It’s all within walking distance. You’ll see traditional Russian homes with intricate designs carved into the windowpanes. It’s a true window into life in the country and unlike anything you’ll see in your urban Russian travels. We had lunch at the adorable Chainaya, where we ate some great dumplings and soup out on the patio. Coming back to Moscow at the end of the day became very tricky. After grabbing a quick bite to eat in Vladimir, we jumped on the last train home, only to find it was a sleeper train that originated in Siberia. It was packed. Our seats were not together. It smelled like you’d expect a train to smell if the people inside it had been there for 3-4 days. We became instant celebrities, with strangers bringing us cups of tea, packs of biscuits and looking incredulous that we couldn’t understand anything they said. The friendly man next to me gave my friend a seat on his bench/bed that he and his wife were sharing so we could sit together. He turned out to be a Siberian Kalashnikov dealer who spoke great English and got things in order when the attention from other passengers became a little much. So despite the 80-degree, windowless 4-hour experience, we ended up making a friend and it became one of our favorite memories of this trip.

St. Petersburg

I’ve already let the cat out of the bag that I fell in love, hard, with Moscow. But that’s not to say that I didn’t also enjoy St. Petersburg (or, as the locals pronounce it, “Sankte Paterborg”) immensely. It’s a gloriously beautiful city filled with over-the-top opulence and reminders that Russians – past and present – like to go big or go home. At the very heart of it, the city is just undeniably pretty, and visiting during the White Nights, as they call the long days of summer when the sun hardly sets at all, doesn’t hurt. Sure, St. Petersburg is a little more touristy than its cousin, Moscow (we realized after half a day here that we’d heard more English than in 4 days in Moscow), so as a result, it’s easy to navigate. If I had to compare, I’d say that Moscow seems more Russian, and St. Petersburg more European. They’re totally different and both 100% worth seeing. If you do this trip, getting between Moscow and St. Petersburg is extremely easy, via high-speed trains that are clean, efficient and very comfortable. Just remember to buy your tickets online in advance to avoid the hell that is purchasing tickets on kiosks in the Cyrillic alphabet.

Where We Stayed:
Rossi Boutique Hotel & Spa. A highly recommended hotel in terms of location, price and comfort. Rossi took care of my visa invitation and were incredibly helpful when there was a mixup with my middle name, emailing me a new invitation immediately while I was at the consulate. The hotel is located right on a canal next to a bridge and is just a 5 minute walk to Nevksky Prospeky, the main boulevard, but tucked away from the crowds and outdoor music that seems to play on until the wee hours every night. The rooms themselves are nicely made up, pretty stylish, and very comfortable. A great spot.

Where We Ate:
Cococo. After White Rabbit, this was the one other reservation I made before leaving the U.S. Cococo’s vibe is “modern Russian” with a side of farm-to-tableIt’s also a gorgeous space, with a bar tailor-made for dates or girls’ nights out. Or, just two friends gorging themselves on dinner. I’ll admit, I got the idea to eat here from watching Anthony Bourdain on Parts Unknown, but it really lived up to the hype. First of all, the plates looked incredible. I very, very rarely feel the need to take photos of my food but I did it here. The colors were bright and the plating belonged at MoMA. More importantly, the food was fantastic. Not nearly as outrageous as White Rabbit, Cococo pushes the boundaries on the modern but the food is still very accessible. Overall, a delicious (and beautiful) meal. (PS: For dessert, you must get the “cococorn.”)

Koryushka. St. Petersburg is (sometimes) called “the Venice of the north” because it’s set on the Neva River and canals run through it, and its place on the water is a major factor in its beauty. Koryushka is a fabulous Georgian restaurant located on Zayachy Island, which is also home to Peter and Paul Fortress. You must make reservations to eat here, because, for good reason, Koryushka gets packed on summer nights. The walls of the restaurant open up and across the water you can see the gleaming turquoise Hermitage underneath a pastel sky with a sun that won’t set. The food here is also magnificent, and presented on a picture book-style menu which is frankly very helpful when trying to understand foods you have never met. Do not miss the fried smelts on the appetizer list (hold them by the tail and crunch them whole), or the Georgian-style eggplant, or the pkhali, or the dumplings, or the fish…I could go on. Fantastic.

Stolle Cafe. To say that we became obsessed with this bakery might be an understatement– we visited it for breakfast just about every day. There are several locations throughout the city, and you’re in good hands in any of them. Stolle’s main (and only) attraction are its pies, which are freshly baked and cut into extremely generously-sized portions that will keep you full as you trek across the city seeing the sights. There are so many pie flavors, both sweet and savory. I probably sampled a least half of them, with the rabbit and the sweet cheese pies coming in strong near the top of my list. Don’t leave the city without chowing down on one of these.

Severyanin. This was not on my initial list of places to eat, but after doing some research while in Russia, I decided to make reservations here for our last night in St. Petersburg. This was truly one of the best meals of the trip. The restaurant is so cozy, like eating in someone’s (high-end) dining room. And the service is spectacular. The waitress spoke 4 languages and was so helpful in guiding our dinner choices. If you eat here, you absolutely must order the caviar and blinis, as well as any of the dumpling options. This is like home-cooked Russian food prepared at the highest level, and the wine is also excellent (we had a white from the Sochi area that was recommended, and it was delicious). For a special occasion or a true taste of Russian cooking, this is the place to go.

Kilikiya. As part of our mission to eat our way through the Caucusus, we had a fabulous meal at this basement-level Armenian restaurant. It was another completely gluttonous feast of unfamiliar and delicious foods, including what seemed like stewed nettles, grilled meats, flatbreads, eggplant, and on and on. Highly recommend.

Marketplace. If you’re hitting up all the central sites in St. Petersburg and are looking for a quick spot for lunch without shelling out tourist prices for an underwhelming sit-down experience, Marketplace is the place to go. It’s a buffet-style setup (kind of like Dishes in New York, but better), with different areas, from salad, to hot entrees, to amazing desserts. They have two levels of indoor seating as well as an outdoor terrace, and some delicious lemonade as well.

Yat Restaurant. I read about Yat in the Lonely Planet and was not expecting much, but it is very close to the Hermitage and it made sense to stop here for lunch after an exhausting morning of art. Turns out, Yat is an amazing restaurant. It’s a little bizarrely decorated (kind of like fairy tale themed, and there is a kids’ room with long-haired rabbits in the back on your way to the restroom) but the food and service are both fantastic. We had dumplings, spreads and soups, and all were very high quality and extremely reasonably priced.

Zoom Café. Very Brooklyn bohemian, Zoom Café is a great spot to settle in for some healty-ish food, delicious teas and free WiFi. It has a lot of cozy nooks and crannies, very friendly waitstaff (highly unusual in Russia!) and tasty salads.

Terrassa. If you’re looking for a spot to see and be seen in St. Petersburg, Terrassa is a great choice. It’s the on the terrace of the 6th floor of a building near the center of town, and because the city is not a vertical one, it gives you a great view of the tops of all the cathedrals. The menu is very long and international (think a million pastas, and sushi) and the clientele is hip (as are the hostesses, who look like runway models). Very good food and cocktails.

What We Did:
Yusupov Palace. St. Petersburg is literally jam-packed with palaces. During the Revolution, these giant family homes were seized by the Bolsheviks and became state owned for decades, during which time they were used for things like…storage. If you’re interested in how the other half lived pre-Revolution, Yusopov Palace is a great place to spend a few hours. There’s a great audio guide that will take you from room to room through this stunning home, including its personal theater.

Catherine Palace. If you do one day trip out of the city, you’ll be likely choosing between Peterhof (Peter’s palace) and Catherine’s Palace, the royal family’s summer home. We opted for the latter and were glad we did (though Peterhof’s landscaping is supposed to be incredible). Catherine Palace has beautiful gardens to wander through and is home to the famous Amber Room, originally made entirely of amber and called the Eighth Wonder of the World. During World War II, the room was looted by the Nazis and during the last months of the war, the amber panels, which had been hidden in Germany, were mysteriously stolen and never seen again. Intrigue! The palace is a stunning reminder of the way the czars lived. The palace can be reached by bus (a bit of a tricky system but do-able) or by Uber, which is not very costly.

The State Hermitage Museum. If there’s one tourist site in St. Petersburg that doesn’t need an intro it’s probably the sprawling, Easter egg-colored former palace-come-largest art museum in the world known as the Hermitage. It’s obviously a must-see because it’s filled to the brim with some of the world’s finest art, but it’s also filled with some of the world’s pushiest, most clueless tourists. So, because art exhaustion is real and I would hate to see you get swept up in a crowd of group tours with selfie sticks, please follow this advice. 1) Book your ticket ahead of time so you don’t lose half the day’s patience waiting to get in and 2) Make a game plan. Write down the rooms with the stuff you really want to see. Skip the rest. Your sanity (and feet) will thank you.

The State Russian Museum. While the Hermitage was lovely, this was my favorite art museum in Russia. A real sleeper hit! Much less crowded with some great gems inside that you’ve probably never heard of. This is a museum you can take your time in and really get to know some new art.

Church of the Savior on Blood. With quite a name, this colorful onion-domed church is the most famous in the city and located right in the center of town. And it’s not just the exterior that’s beautiful- the inside is covered in intricate, brightly colored mosaics (which were painstakingly restored after the church was used for grain storage after the revolution) that will blow your mind. And there’s a great audio guide that will give you all the background you need.

Kazan Cathedral. It may lack the iconic onion domes of Russia’s best known churches (it looks more like London’s St. Paul), but Kazan Cathedral is a dark and brooding beauty worth a visit. We came here while prayers were in session and heard the incredible choir singing, unseen, from the balcony. Absolutely beautiful.

Peter and Paul Fortress. Across the river (you can walk there on a nice day over a few bridges) is Peter and Paul Fortress, the original walled citadel of St. Petersburg. There’s enough here to keep you busy for a few hours, strolling through what feels like a cobblestoned Scandinavian village. But the two main points of interest (at least for me) were the prison where many of the most well-known Bolsheviks were imprisoned and the church containing the tombs of every czar in history except two. This, in particular, I found to be incredible.

Trinity Cathedral. While the interior was under construction when I visited (it’s now finished), the beautiful domes alone were enough to recommend. Bright azure blue with golden stars, it’s a truly exquisite sight to behold. It’s also where Dostoyevsky was married!

Museum of the Defense and Siege of Leningrad. If you’re into history, you’ve got to come here. Crammed into a rather stuffy old building is the history of the siege of Leningrad during World War II in its heartbreaking entirety. It’s mostly in English, but you’ll get the gist even when it’s not, and it’s worth seeing to fully understand the devastation the city faced during the two-and-a-half year blockade that took the lives of a million residents.