Italy
I’ve been to Italy a few times (including Tuscany and the Adriatic coast) but the only “adult” trip I’ve planned there was to Venice, in 2015 with my parents. Now, all kinds of people have all kinds of opinions about this city, and it breaks my heart when I hear someone recommend against visiting because it’s “too touristy” and “not authentic.” Yes, Venice welcomes an astounding number of tourists every year and yes, there are a lot of rip-offs to be found in town. But it’s also an absolutely stunning, unique city that offers plenty in the way of rewards if you put in the research and know where to look.
Venice
Here are some very common misconceptions about Venice and my heartfelt pleas for why you should get to know this city despite them:
The food isn’t good. Look, Venice isn’t Tuscany and it isn’t Rome. But it does have a vibrant food culture if you look for it and commit to eating more like a local and less like a tourist. Some of the best things about dining in Venice are aperol spritzes, which were born here before they conquered the western world and became the “drink of the summer,” and cicchetti, which are little bruschetta tapas with lots of varied and interesting toppings. You can even combine the best of both in some of the divier Venice bars, where you can also order wine by the plastic cup and choose cicchetti from behind the glass. You can even leave the store with these items and eat them al fresco, on the stairs of a canal bridge! What could be better than an informal dinner eaten outside and wine in a tiny plastic mouthwash cup?
It’s too crowded with tourists. Yes, there are a lot of tourists in Venice. They’re packed into Piazza San Marco like sardines wearing bucket hats and camera bags and holding selfie sticks. But it would be silly to let this deter you from visiting. These tourists are avoidable! They hardly get beyond the piazza and Ponte di Rialto, so walking an extra five minutes means you can breathe again. Some of Venice’s best sights are a long, lingering walk away from the center, or even a boat ride away. I visited the Jewish quarter and was literally the only person as far as I could see. See the main sights (you have to, you’re in Venice) but plan to branch out, and don’t book a central hotel. The best part of Venice is wandering anyway.
It’s too expensive. Venice isn’t a budget destination. It’s even less of a budget destination if you’re eating at restaurants in San Marco with identical tourist menus. But think of it this way – the dollar is strong, and it’s a good time to visit Europe! Eat on the outskirts of town. Make your reservations beforehand so you’re not making dining decisions while you’re hangry and more likely and willing to throw money out the window. I had an absolutely lovely and memorable 5-course meal in Venice with fabulous, hard-to-find northern Italian wine for a totally reasonable price. You can do it!
Bottom line – it would be such a shame to give this unique place a miss based on some snobs you know telling you it’s not worth your time. I love an off-the-grid, “authentic” destination as much as the next person (maybe more!) but you can’t deny the sheer splendor of this place, and it’s something you should see if you have the chance. It is a bewitching city. This is my 3-4 day Venice itinerary which I thoroughly enjoyed executing, and I hope you get the chance to, too.
Where We Stayed:
Ca’Pisani. One of the most important decisions you’re going to make in visiting Venice is where to stay. You’re going to be momentarily tempted to stay in San Marco, because you like to be in the middle of things, but I’d advise against it. My vote is for the island of Dorsoduro, which is adjacent to San Marco and just a 10-15 minute walk from the piazza. However, despite its convenience, it really feels like a different, more peaceful world once you cross the bridge that connects them. It’s also the home of the Gallerie dell’Accademia and the Santa Maria basilica, and has two convenient water tram stops. If you do choose to stay there, Ca’Pisani is the move. It’s a boutique hotel just around the corner from the museum and the bridge to San Marco, where the rooms are spacious and well-designed (all Art Deco) and the staff is happy to explain to you for the third time how to navigate the water tram system. There’s an impressive breakfast in the downstairs restaurant (with a few seats outside) that includes all the espresso drinks you’d ever want. It’s the perfect place to come home to after a day on your feet, wandering down Venetian alleyways.
What We Ate:
Il Ridotto. If you’re looking for a standout dinner in Venice that is creative, interesting, absolutely delicious and reasonably priced, Il Ridotto is your spot. This little restaurant is tucked just around the corner from San Marco but feels like worlds away from the hustle and bustle. You can either order a la carte or choose the tasting menu (they offer a fish tasting and a fish plus meat) – we chose the tasting and did not regret it. It was the perfect amount of food (5 courses) and the sommelier will help you decipher their fantastic wine list, which features many interesting and lesser known northern Italian wines. Il Ridotto is upscale but not stuffy, and intimate in a way that Venice often is not. Reservations are crucial, so make them a few weeks in advance (you will need to give them your credit card number – don’t let it deter you).
Taverna San Trovaso. Another great restaurant if you’re on the quest to eat good food for a reasonable price. This little gem is located at the end of a quiet street in Dorsoduro, just a few blocks from the Gallerie and a great spot to sit and relax after perusing art for hours on end. You can either dine indoors or out on the large terrace. Our seafood and pasta dishes were all delicious, and the aperol spritzes were enormous. Need I say more?
Venissa. Venissa is an experience, and it takes some work logistically. But if you have a few days in Venice, and I’ll discuss this more below, go visit some of the quieter, less visited islands. The incredible restaurant and vineyard Venissa is located on the island of Mazzorbo. It’s a different universe from San Marco. We had lunch at the Osteria (the main restaurant was closed that day) and it was exquisite – eaten outside on a terrace surrounded by the restaurant’s garden, from which our 3-course lunch was prepared. The homemade pasta was to die for, and we ferried on back to Dorsoduro afterwards feeling relaxed and revived.
Cantine del Vino Gia Schiavi. If you are searching for authenticity in Venice, you cannot miss this place. On a narrow canal in Dorsoduro, this wine bar is a throwback to Venice of old, and is still filled mostly with regulars. The walls are covered with wine bottles (all marked with the amount per glass), and you pretty much just point to what you want (or have the very friendly barkeeps recommend you something), pay about a Euro, and receive a small plastic cup of wine. There’s also a large case filled with various cicchetti, which you should definitely try. We bought one of each, and brought our picnic lunch outside to eat on the steps of a small bridge. It was truly an experience to feel part of the local Venice tapestry – and the wine and snacks were delicious.
What We Did:
Gallerie dell’Accademia. You simply cannot leave Venice without seeing it, sorry. This enormous museum is packed full of works by Bellini, Titian, Tintoretto and every other Venetian artist from the 14th to 18th centuries who matters. The building is a former convent which, in itself, is an interesting draw. One thing I’ve begun doing lately in my travels, since I started feeling guilty that I couldn’t be engaged in an art museum for 3 hours, is to make a better plan. I accepted that I can only spend about 1.5 hours looking at art happily. I now arrive with a map of the museum and mark the rooms I want to see. And then I enjoy them and give the others a miss, without guilt. You can take the Gallerie as quickly or as slowly as you want, and I’d recommend visiting after lunch when the initial hordes of tourists have given up and are eating overpriced lunches in the piazza. We visited in a late afternoon rainstorm and had most of the place to ourselves.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection: One of my favorite museums, ever. Also located in Dorsoduro (if you needed another reason to spend time there), this grand home-turned-museum is right on the Grand Canal, which you can see from most of the windows. It’s simply stunning, and it doesn’t hurt that the collection inside is varied and interesting in a way that many aren’t. Peggy Guggenheim was a collector of many different types of art that spoke to her, so there is always something unexpected. She has a fantastic collection of Pollocks which are particularly worth seeing.
San Marco Piazza. Obviously. You’re going to have to do this. You’ll brave the line to the basilica in the blazing sun with what feels like every other tourist in the city, but it’s part of the initiation. I’ll tell you – the inside of the church is worth it. The view from the top is grand. There’s an interesting museum (and the real horses that are meant to be on the front) inside. And the frescoes are breathtaking. The Palazzo Ducale is also beautiful, but I would have gotten more from it in a tour, which we opted against. If you only choose one tourist trap to participate in, choose the basilica, but if you’re into history then I would encourage you to do both (plus the palazzo tour).
San Vidal Church Performance. Before every trip I take, I like to get tickets to some kind of local performance or event – it’s nice to have somewhere to be in the evening! In Venice that was a Vivaldi concert at the (deconsecrated) San Vidal Church. The performances are simple – folding chairs in a beautiful old church – but the music is glorious. The four seasons, which can sometimes be cheesy, brought tears to my eyes. It’s not a long commitment and if you have any interest in live classical music, get here.
Jewish Ghetto. It’s a little known fact, but the term “ghetto” actually originated in Venice, as the name of this island where the Jews of Venice traditionally lived. Beginning in the 1500s, Jews were allowed to live in this area, and were confined there at night when the bridges went up. Today you can visit the small museum where there are tours that take you to see 2-3 of the synagogues (from the 16th and 17th centuries). You can’t visit the synagogues without being on the tours, but it’s definitely worth it for the fascinating history lesson and the beautiful temple interiors.
Outer Islands. Get out of the city proper if you have time. Many people recommend the island of Murano, which specializes in blown glass. Near to that is the island of Mazzorbo, where you can have lunch or dinner at Venissa and sample their wine (the only vineyard in Venice, with a fascinating story of how they deal with flooding). Whatever you do, find a way to get on a water tram and into the open water. The charms of greater Venice are real and will give you good perspective on the city’s history and layout.
Wandering Around. This is a real suggestion, and I consider it mandatory. More than probably any other place, you haven’t seen Venice until you’ve wandered it with no direction in mind. Until you’ve gotten lost and turned around and see a view, a shop you haven’t seen before. Until you’ve literally stumbled up onto the steps of a gorgeous cathedral you didn’t even realize was there. Spend an entire afternoon doing this – I can assure you it’s the only real way to get a flavor for this place, and maybe even find a few of your own hidden gems. Venice may have a reputation that precedes her, but she is very much worth getting to know. And you know what? It might be touristy, but the sight of an accordion player in a gondola will probably warm your jaded heart.
