Albania
When I tell people I went to Albania on vacation, all of them (native Albanians included) offer me either a blank stare or a look of mixed concern and confusion in return. But I have to say, this was one of my favorite trips ever and I’m frankly glad that more people either have no idea where Albania is or what it has to offer – at some point, this will be the next hot spot, and the country’s quirks and charm will be lost. In the meantime, you should go here while things are cheap (trust me, the Albanian lek is no competition for the US dollar) and what’s on offer is still authentic (sometimes a little too authentic, but that’s part of the journey).
Here are three reasons to visit:
Albanians were among the friendliest people I’ve ever met while traveling. Maybe this was partly due to the fact that they were not used to seeing tourists (on the boardwalk one night someone asked us “How did you get here?” when we told them we were from the United States). Maybe they’re just culturally hospitable and generous. Either way, in all of our adventures, we encountered friendly faces, including the policemen who politely waved a “Stop” paddle at us as we drove the wrong way down a one-way street and then laughed and shrugged when we told them we were just confused Americans.
Albania also has some of the most spectacular natural beauty I’ve seen. The mountains are stunning, and their valleys are home to some of the most remote rural communities that exist today in Europe. Think green meadows, little churches and sheep grazing in clusters. Refreshingly idyllic and breathtaking.
The food. THE FOOD! I don’t think any of us was expecting much in this department, which was mostly due to sheer ignorance. I can still taste some of the meals I ate here, which included the freshest organic produce I’ve had maybe ever (a tomato tasted more tomato-y than you could even imagine) and some incredibly delicious meat (like a spit-roasted lamb that we had for lunch at a little half-hidden restaurant on the coastal highway). It’s the perfect convergence of Balkan, Greek, Italian, and Turkish food, and it’s unbelievably delicious.
As you might imagine, Albania’s tourist infrastructure is not exactly robust. In fact, their infrastructure infrastructure isn’t either. So, road travel there was a real adventure, in a country whose roads could use a good paving all around and whose people didn’t drive cars through the 1990s because of a communist ban on private auto ownership. More than anywhere I’ve visited, traffic laws here were truly optional and not a single car with automatic transmission existed for rental purposes. So while driving from city to city wasn’t bad, driving in Tirana itself was a congested nightmare of rotaries, buses about to run you over and no discernible lanes. Avoid this if you can, or at least keep it to a minimum.
Also keep in mind that the summer is HOT. And that air-conditioning is not yet ubiquitous in restaurants and museums. But this is all the more reason to get down to the coast and cool off in Albania’s Ionian and Adriatic beaches. Here you’ll have a chance to escape the somewhat dusty interior of the country and see some stunning vistas, eat the freshest seafood and even take in some of the most awe-inspiring (and downright deserted) Roman ruins.
Here was our 2-week itinerary:
Tirana
Shkodër
Theth
Berat
Sarandë
So if you’re into off-the-beaten track, book your flight to Tirana asap – Albania’s going to give you an adventure of a lifetime on a shoestring budget. Just don’t forget to wear your seatbelt.
Tirana
We flew into Tirana and spent a couple of days here getting our bearings before the real adventures began. It’s a bit of an offbeat city, featuring such oddities as the Pyramid, but it has wide, leafy boulevards, some older buildings worth visiting as well as rampant communist-era construction, and also a few great day trips worth considering.
Where We Stayed:
Sheraton Hotel Tirana. My taste in hotels is always boutique, a little on the luxe side. However, variety in Tirana (at least in 2013) was somewhat limited, so we ended up choosing something safe and convenient instead. It’s a bit oddly located at the end of one of Tirana’s main roads which kind of turns into a parking lot / cul de sac – and next to the football stadium. But it’s within walking distance of everything you’d want to be near, and is nicely kept and comfortable. Also, I believe it is the only joint in town with both indoor and outdoor pools which, trust me, you’ll be grateful for in the summer heat.
What We Ate:
Vila Logoreci. Beautiful leafy courtyard for dining, a level above the street. Service was excellent, as was the Italian food. As you will discover, pizza in Albania is pretty fantastic at most places, and Vila Logoreci was no exception. Pastas and seafood dishes were also delicious.
Green House. We had a lovely dinner at Green House, a bit tucked away but right off Tirana’s main drag. The restaurant has a lovely patio with shady tables and a reliably good Italian-influenced menu. We all ordered excellent meat dishes, though our favorite was dessert – we shared an order of tres leche cake, which we would from then on eat at every meal over the course of the next two weeks. I don’t know why, but Albania consistently made the best tres leche cake we’d ever had in our lives and none has been able to live up to it since then.
What We Did:
National Historical Museum. Albania has a pretty colorful history, to say the least. So a trip to the National Historical Museum was a good way to soak that up for an hour or two and learn about the country’s past and the region, which I’d bet you won’t go in knowing much about. Not all of the exhibits are translated into English, but most are and you’ll get the idea for the ones that aren’t. You can’t miss the building – it’s right in Skanderbeg Square and has a huge, eye-catching mural over the entryway.
Et’hem Bay Mosque. Albania’s religious diversity is one of its most fascinating aspects, so we jumped at the chance to visit mosques, Catholic churches and Orthodox churches galore. This mosque, right next to Skanderbeg Square, is a beauty, built in the 18th-19th centuries. The interior has some really beautiful – and apparently unusual – mosaics which you’re welcome to peek in and see.
Visit Krujë. The best thing to do in Tirana is skip town after a day or so to see Krujë, the town where Albania’s national hero Skanderbeg (whom everything is named after) was born and home to many battles against the Turks. About an hour from the capital, Krujë has a castle that we had a great time visiting, perched on an ominous-looking looking hill. The castle itself is pretty obviously reconstructed in many places, but it still offered a good bit of history and scenery, and gave us our first glimpse of the Albanian countryside. We also took a rickety climb up the nearby watchtower for breathtaking views of the mountains and the Adriatic Sea. Afterwards, we visited the Ethnographic Museum nearby, which we loved. It has a beautiful garden and was an intriguing window into a traditional Albanian dwelling. Krujë is also filled to the brim with souvenirs in the market – I got a beautiful olive wood cutting board with bark on the outside that’s still one of my favorite pieces to serve food on.
Shkodër
After leaving Tirana, we drove north to Shkodër, where we stayed for a couple of nights, mainly as a launch pad into Albania’s northern mountains, which were the real draw. But Shkodër itself is a charming town, filled with sidewalk cafes, several imposing mosques and a castle on its outskirts. One of Albania’s quirks that made us chuckle most was the stroll, or “xhiro” that happens every night. As evening falls, everyone comes out of their houses and just strolls up and down the street. Families, couples, groups of teenagers, you name it. We participated in a number of these strolls ourselves but also got a kick out of watching the party happen from our perfectly situated balcony. With its numerous outdoor bars and cafes and gelato shops, Shkodër held the best xhiro in the country.
Where We Stayed:
Hotel Colosseo. We stayed at the stately and fairly recently renovated Hotel Colosseo, which suited our tastes just fine. It’s quite centrally located, just next to one of the main pedestrian-only areas of the town, and it has its own parking lot. The lobby has, as many things charmingly do in Albania, a hint of a “Euro” vibe, but the rooms were well-designed and comfortable. The staff, who were truly helpful with all of our needs, were also kind enough to hold onto our larger luggage and let us keep our car parked there for two nights while we ventured into the Dinaric Alps in a more substantial vehicle.
What We Did:
Visited mosques and churches. Besides strolling aimlessly all over the place, because this town is made for strolling, we also peeked into the two enormous mosques in Shkodër as well as the Orthodox church nearby. All are open and available for you to check out – just make sure you’re dressed appropriately before stepping in.
Rozafa Castle. Just on the outskirts of Shkodër, this was a worthwhile stop on our way out of town. While it’s partially ruined (as are all of the Albanian castles – thanks a lot, Turks), much of it is still intact and rife for exploring. It’s also got an interesting history and legend accompanying it. We found this to be a really tranquil place with gorgeous views of the surrounding countryside.
What We Ate:
Piazza Park. Right next to the hotel (and, I believe, affiliated with it), just adjacent to one of the town’s pedestrian-only areas, was Piazza Park. We had a lovely dinner here one night, with plenty of delicious Balkan wines (seriously, if you’re into wine, this region is really intriguing) and solid entrees. The setting is pretty superb, with a large outdoor space with umbrellas and potted plants. Traditional Albanian food as well as delicious Italian options, it’s a restaurant that would definitely satisfy a large group with diverse tastes.
San Francisco Café. We ate a delicious lunch here one afternoon. One of the first restaurants on the pedestrian strip, it is quite massive, with an indoor ground level and outdoor second level terrace. Lots of fans too, to keep you cool. An odd name for a restaurant in northern Albania? Certainly. And an off-puttingly long menu as well. But everything we ate here – from kebabs to pizza to salad – was pretty delicious. Plus, a great little view of the town to boot.
Theth
After a day and a half in Shkodër, things started getting really adventurous. We said goodbye to our oversized minivan and hello to a sleek Land Rover which was accompanied by a stoic Albanian driver who did not speak English but had driving skills that would make you swoon. Of note, this is the first time in my life that it became abundantly clear what a Land Rover’s actual use is, besides cruising around LA. We were picked up at our hotel early one morning, piled into our trusty off-roading vehicle, and set off into the Dinaric Alps in what might have been the most insane road travel experience of my life. Destination: Theth, one of the most remote communities left in Europe. Truly a place of fairy tales, Theth did not have year-round electricity until a season before we arrived. The year-round population is about 8 families at this point, who each have little cottages and fields. Theth is a place that’s so otherworldy that it’s hard to even describe, but I wish everyone had a chance to visit. Just know that you cannot, should not, try to drive there yourself. Hire a skilled driver with the right vehicle who can navigate the unpaved mountain switchbacks safely.
Where We Stayed:
Ndue Praçe’s Tower. We arranged our stay through an agency (which arranged for our stay and also the drive) but in the last 3 years there’s more public information that makes it possible for you to plan a trip yourself. Ndue Praçe’s Tower was an incredible place to stay. The beds were comfy (mostly twins throughout), the house is rustic and charming (with astounding views from every window), and the family is so kind. There was definitely a bit of a language barrier, but they also speak French which proved useful for us. Agentina, who splits her time between France and Theth, was so helpful and took us hiking, arranged our meals, etc. The food was absolutely delicious, and everything was made fresh at home by “grandma.” It was truly a place to unwind for a few days and just marvel at the scenery.
What We Did:
Besides flopping around and staring incredulously around us, we did a couple of short hikes around Theth, including to a beautiful waterfall. All of the hiking we did was not strenuous, but there is also opportunity for day-long or multi-day hikes in the mountains which I would have loved to try. We also were given a little tour of Theth, including a tower in the center of the village which not so long ago was used to house men whose families were involved in bloody clan warfare with another family. Because it’s so remote, the region has its own unique history compared to the rest of Albania, and it was fascinating to learn about the way of life in Theth, which to some extent still exists today.
Berat
After living in a veritable fairytale in Theth and another overnight in Shkodër to collect our belongings, we headed south to Berat, an inland city in Central Albania. On the way, we stopped for lunch and, in a vast misunderstanding, ended up acquiring three cooked chickens in rice (for 3 meat eaters), and after getting a bit lost, discovered a new highway that, though not on any of our paper roadmaps, took us directly where we were going. The old town of Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (therefore exponentially increasing the odds that I, eternal history nerd, would insist we visit) and is known as “Town of a Thousand Windows” because of the many large windows of the old homes built into the hillside and overlooking the river. With a fabulous castle, centuries-old mosques and distinct, stunning historic architecture, there was plenty to keep us busy here for several days.
Where We Stayed:
Castle Park Hotel. Located about half a mile up a hill on the opposite side of the river from the main area of the town, Castle Park was equal parts quirky and surprisingly fabulous. Its moniker is deserved, because the hotel does look, in standard Albanian kitsch, just like a castle. Our rooms were outside of the main house in a long row of rooms reaching into the forest. Inside, the rooms were rustic but had televisions, air conditioning and everything you’d need to be comfortable – they reminded me a bit of little cabins. We had a car that we could take into town if we didn’t feel like walking uphill on the way back, but there’s also a shuttle bus for guests that make getting to the main sites easier. If you don’t require silk sheets and room service (if you do, don’t go to Albania!), I’d highly recommend Castle Park as a lovely place to stay in Berat.
What We Did:
Berat Castle. This was one of the most fascinating castles I’ve ever visited, and definitely my favorite in Albania. Parts of the castle date back 2,500 years and today there are more than 20 churches and a mosque within its walls. Perhaps more uniquely, there is still a thriving community living within the castle today. If you like history (or just want to see a great view) you’ll love wandering around for a half day, poking around and marveling at the centuries old relics. One thing I would recommend is hiring a guide when you get to the entrance. We almost didn’t (because we like to pinch pennies at really weird times and don’t like to be told what to do) but ended up very grateful for the thorough tour Tony gave us. Of the 20 churches, not all are open to the public, but Tony had the keys to others, including one absolutely stunning church filled with mosaics on the ceiling, walls and floors. There’s also a museum and a small restaurant where you can get some snacks and hide in the shade.
Ethnographic Museum. On the hill leading up to the castle is a lovely ethnographic museum which was totally different but equally as interesting as the one we saw in Krujë. The home and culture represented are specific to Berat, and after seeing all the distinct homes in the town it was fascinating to see what the traditional interiors looked like and why. We spent about 45 minutes here poking around, and it’s a worthwhile add-on to a visit to the castle.
Çobo Winery. One of my favorite activities of the trip was our adventure to Çobo Winery, which makes an awesome, HIGHLY recommended day trip from Berat. You need to email them ahead of time and book an appointment (easy to do, they were very accommodating) and expect to spenc 2-3 hours once you’re there. Muharrem Çobo, the vineyard’s owner and quite the character, gave us a tour of both the vineyards and the winery itself along with some great anecdotes to boot. The winemaking tradition in Albania is an ancient one, but when the communist regime took over in 1945 and banned private enterprises, it came to a halt. After the fall of communism in the 1990s, Çobo and his family again resumed private wine production and today make a number of really beautiful and interesting wines from only Albanian grapes, which you have likely never even heard of. The tasting room is beautiful, and we were able to taste a full flight of Çobo’s wines. He also makes raki, which is basically Albanian grappa (so, I find it disgusting, my dad finds it delicious), and we tasted that as well. We came away with several bottles of wine and a raki – I highly recommend the 2007 Reserve (which I actually just cracked open a few months ago) and the walnut raki – we finished the bottle a while ago but still remember it fondly!
What We Ate:
White House. White House has a beautiful dining terrace overlooking the (somewhat dirty) River Osum. We had a lovely dinner here one night feasting on Italian-influenced dishes – with lots of options for the vegetarians in our midst. The fish was particularly outstanding and we found it to be very good value for the money.
Castle Park Hotel. We had some of the best meals of our trip at Castle Park, where we were staying, out on the terrace overlooking Berat. The restaurant is definitely a bit upmarket, though not stuffy at all. The menu is Albanian and the service is just impeccable – we pretty much gave full discretion to the house to serve us dinner and ended up in a Mediterranean coma. The olives, the cheese, the fresh bread, everything was fresh and just delicious. It has a great wine list as well, which might have contributed to the comatose state. Even if you’re not staying here, find it in you to make the trek to Castle Park for dinner – you’re not going to be sorry.
Sarandë
We arrived in Sarandë in the late afternoon, and ran straight to the beach, which was made of rocks (welcome to Europe) and just across the street from our hotel. While we still did not come across any other Americans in Sarandë, we definitely found tourists from elsewhere in Europe after having been what seemed like the only tourists in the country on our trip thus far. As a result, the beaches were a bit crowded, but not terribly so, and chairs could be rented for a few dollars, with traditional Albanian snacks coming by on a tray in intervals. At night, Sarandë served up some great nightlife, with a typical boardwalk scene, including dance music across the harbor, people strolling in droves and fantastic seafood eaten al fresco. Basically, we wore bathing suits and ate fried calamari until we exploded.
Where We Stayed:
Hotel Brilant. Just across the beach from the shoreline, Hotel Brilant was modern (by Albanian standards) and beachy. Service was excellent and breakfast was served on the top floor, overlooking the harbor, and many of the rooms have balconies and seaside views. The location is perfect, just on the end of the tourist madness with room to park but easily walkable to wherever you want to go.
What We Did:
Hit the Beach: After an inland vacation up until this point, 3/5 of our party were pretty keen to hit the beach immediately, rocks and all. We also took a day trip to a beach a few miles out of town that offered sand and a dock as well. Swimming in the Ionian Sea was dreamy, like floating in salty bathwater (in the best possible way). If you can’t stand crowds, there are definitely beaches within a few miles from Sarandë that can offer you a more peaceful beach experience – there’s something for everyone.
Butrint National Park: We took a fascinating day trip to Butrint, which I think was one of Albania’s best-kept secrets and only 10 miles from Sarandë. Butrint is an archaeological site (and, say it with me, a UNESCO World Heritage Site). The site dates back to 50,000 BC and has many intact components of both Greek and Roman cities that once flourished there, next to a beautiful lagoon. The number of structures still standing is absolutely astounding. Anywhere else in the Mediterranean (read: Italy and Greece), this site would be overrun by tourists, but we were the only ones there at times, just roaming around and taking it all in. There’s also a good museum there that’s worth visiting for context and to see other relics that have been found in and around the sites. Perhaps the best part of Butrint was that we were in Sarandë during the week of the Butrint Festival. So one evening after dinner, we drove back to the park to see a Shakespeare play performed by a traveling troupe from Santa Clara (in English) while we sat in, wait for it, the Greek amphitheater that is pretty much totally intact. It was a spectacular experience we won’t soon forget, and not only because my mother almost fell into the moat between the stage and the steps.
Corfu, Greece: Not content to be so close to Greece without visiting it, we took an early morning hydrofoil over to Corfu to see what it was all about. There are several ferry options from Sarandë that can get you to various ports in Italy and Greece – Corfu is the most easily accessible, and customs is a breeze. We didn’t have much of an itinerary in Corfu, but upon arrival it’s easy to grab a taxi from the port and take it into Old Town. Corfu was beautiful (very quaint and Mediterranean), though after 10 days in Albania it seemed a lot like Disneyland, and we stocked up on overpriced (goodbye lek, hello Euro) souvenirs like beautiful embroidered pillowcases. We also ate the best baklava of our lives at Liston Cafe. We didn’t make it to see the sites like the fortress, but there’s more than enough to keep you for a day or even two or three in Corfu.
Blue Eye Spring: Syri i Kaltër, or the Blue Eye, is about 15 miles from Sarandë and is a pool of bright turquoise water which bubbles up from 50 meters deep) surrounded by deep blue edges (like an eye). It’s kind of a strange site for tourists to visit, but one that is well-marked and well-known despite its location down a dirt road. It’s definitely a unique sight to behold if you have a free afternoon and are sick of the beach and looking for some shade.
What We Ate:
Demi Restaurant. If you like seafood, you’re not going to go wrong in Sarandë (most nights we just chose random places by the water and gobbled up shellfish like it was our jobs). Our favorite meal, though, was at Demi which was just across from our hotel, extending out on the water. It tends to get a little clubby late at night, but we had a fantastic dinner of some of the best fish I’ve ever eaten, sitting right next to the water, watching the sun go down. Service was smooth and the seafood was so memorable and tempting that it inspired 2 vegetarians to become pescatarians!
