I’ve found myself thinking a lot about stew, and this one in particular, this week. I can think of few things more wintry or cozy than a Dutch oven filled with stew cooking for hours on the stovetop, filling the apartment with the scent of allspice and cinnamon instead of whatever it is that it usually smells like. (Actually, I do know the smell- lately it’s been a not-so-faint whiff of vinegar after I seasoned a terracotta pot on the stove with vinegary water for about 5 hours a few weeks ago). Anyway, if you’re going to let something bubble away on the stovetop for most of the day, let that thing be stew.

The other beauty of stew is the limited investment it requires from you- usually a not-very-expensive cut of meat and not very much prep time. There are rarely precious slices of vegetables (you can keep them nice and chunky). All a stew really needs from you is your presence (in body, if not spirit) to ensure the building doesn’t burn down while it simmers away on low heat for the better part of the afternoon. Feel free to disagree, but I feel like that’s the least we can do in exchange for the perfect dinner?

This stew is a little different than most- with a Mediterranean bend. The usual beef is replaced with lamb and it contains the classic holiday warming spices. A hit of red wine vinegar at the end cuts through some of the richness, and it’s served with a crumble of briny feta on top. It’s sort of an unusual play on stew, but a welcome one.

Maybe stew has been on my mind this week because I am hosting a holiday dinner for 12 this weekend, and as usual have found myself at first committing to doing just the right amount of things, and then slowly adding on more and more to ensure that the prep is the least enjoyable and most stressful it can possibly be. I’ve mostly come to terms with the fact that this is, on some level, who I am. But in the face of my to-do list, I’ll admit that a simple stew is looking pretty attractive right about now.

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Greek Lamb Stew with Baby Onions and Allspice

Category: Soups & Stews

Servings: Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients

  • 4 lbs. meaty bone-in lamb shoulder, cut into 2 1/2-inch chunks
  • 1 can (28 oz.) Italian plum tomatoes packed in puree
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • Coarse sea salt
  • 2 medium onions, chopped
  • 4 garlic cloves, crushed with a pinch of salt
  • 2 tablespoons whole allspice berries, tied in a cheesecloth
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 3 lbs. small white boiling onions, trimmed and peeled
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 1 cup cubed feta cheese

Instructions

  1. Trim any excess fat from the meat and pat dry. Strain the tomatoes with their puree through a food mill to remove the seeds.
  2. In a large heavy skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil until hot. Add the lamb in batches without crowding and saute over medium-high heat, turning, until browned all over, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer each batch to a bowl and season with salt.
  3. When all the meat is browned, pour off the fat from the pan. Add 2 cups water to the skillet and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat and set aside.
  4. In a large flameproof casserole, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil with 1/4 cup water. Add the chopped onions and stir to mix. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the water has evaporated and the onions are melting and translucent, about 10 minutes.
  5. Add the crushed garlic, tomatoes, allspice, cinnamon sticks and bay leaves. Add the browned lamb along with any juices that have accumulated in the bowl. Pour in the reserved liquid from the skillet. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 1 hour and 15 minutes.
  6. Meanwhile, trim the boiling onions. Cut an X in the root end of each with the tip of a small knife and peel. (NOTE: You can also give them a quick blanch with the skins on and they will be easier to peel where you marked your X.) Drain, rinse under cold running water, and shake to drain well.
  7. Put the onions in a large nonstick skillet with 1 tablespoon olive oil and saute over medium-high heat, shaking the pan often, until glazed all over, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle on 1/2 teaspoon sugar and continue to cook until shiny and golden brown, about 3 minutes longer. Remove to a bowl and repeat with the remaining onions.
  8. Add the browned onions to the stewed lamb. Continue to cook over low heat, covered, for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, uncover and let cool. Discard the bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, and bag of allspice.
  9. When the meat is cool enough to handle, remove it from the bones and cut into 1-inch pieces. Return the pieces of meat to the onions and sauce and cover with a sheet of plastic wrap directly on top. Cover and refrigerate for up to a day.
  10. About 1 hour before serving, uncover and remove the plastic wrap. Skim off all the congealed fat. Set over medium-low heat and cook, uncovered, stirring to prevent sticking, until the sauce thickens, about 30 minutes. Stir in the vinegar. Season with the pepper and salt to taste. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes longer. Let stand, covered, until ready to serve. Reheat for an instant and serve hot, with the cubes of feta sprinkled on top.

Notes

https://www.thekitchenchronicles.com/2018/12/04/greek-lamb-stew-with-baby-onions-and-allspice/