In 2015, the Netflix show Chef’s Table premiered, and it had a big impact on me. Maybe it was where I was in my life at that time (a year out from a divorce and getting the hang of an entirely new career, no big deal), but I vividly remember being deeply moved by almost all the episodes. The way several of the chefs talked about their passion for making food for people and what motivated them to do it at such an impressive level literally made me cry. And then there was Francis Mallmann.
Mallmann’s episode was different. I watched it twice. The first time I didn’t really get it- I think it went over my head a little. Here he was, a poncho-clad renegade cooking potatoes in a hole in the ground and burning meats on a grill, while all the other chefs were making beautiful plates of perfectly folded tortellini. He was sort of crude and a little crass. And also very self-centered, making it very clear that cooking like he does is his calling, so to speak, and that has meant that the people in his life, including his children, have often come second.
I think that aspect was what rubbed me the wrong way the first time I watched the episode. But on my second spin through, I realized there was something kind of noble about being uncompromising about who you are- as long as you’re up front about it. Since then, it’s become one of my favorite episodes of the show (I especially love the music), and it’s also made me want to move to Patagonia and cook my own potatoes under a dirt pile.
Unfortunately, my outdoor space is a mere terrace and my ability to dig cooking holes is therefore limited. But I bought Mallmann’s cookbook anyway, knowing that I could probably tackle some of his recipes on a charcoal grill. I was right. While there are some recipes that require a yard and a fire that would most certainly be illegal for me to build, many others can be accomplished on a grill or a very hot cast iron pan on your stovetop.
This is the only recipe I’ve made so far, but I loved it. It’s a simple tomato and olive salad with fresh oregano (one of my favorite herbs). The fire aspect of the dish comes in the form of ricotta salata (one of my favorite cheese) which is grilled on a hot griddle that is sitting over hot charcoal. I’m sure mine didn’t get as hot as called for, but it still created a nice crispy crust on the cheese, which paired really well with the fresh, acidic flavors of the rest of the salad. I hate to be the one to point this out, but summer is starting to wind down, so I suggest you get outside on your grill now with a hunk of cheese, the best summer tomatoes you can find and some herbs from your garden.
Ingredients
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
- 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1/2 cup fresh oregano leaves
- 12 oz. cherry tomatoes, cut in half
- 1 cup Kalamata olives
- 10 oz. ricotta salata
- 2 small red chiles (I used a jalapeno instead)
- Coarse salt
- 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Instructions
- Whisk together the sugar, red wine vinegar, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and the oregano in a bowl. Add the tomatoes and toss to coat.
- Smash the olives with the side of a heavy knife and tear them open, removing the pits. Toss the olives and tomatoes together on a serving platter.
- Break the ricotta salata into rough 1-inch pieces and place in a bowl. Halve the chiles, remove the seeds and cut lengthwise into thin slices. Add to the ricotta and toss with the remaining 5 tablespoons of olive oil.
- Heat a chapa, griddle or large cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add the ricotta and chiles in batches, so they aren't crowded, and cook without moving for 5 to 10 seconds; as soon as you see the cheese charring on the bottom, remove the cheese and chiles and place burnt side up over the tomatoes and olives. Sprinkle with salt and the red pepper flakes. Serve immediately.
Notes
From Seven Fires
