On Saturday night, just a little worse for wear after a day of travel and an extremely slow baggage claim process, I got back from an unforgettable trip to southern Italy. I’d picked a chunk of the country that spanned from Tyrrhenian to Adriatic coasts, to the Calabrian border in the south, to the cities of Naples and Bari in the north, and we covered a ton of ground in Campania, Basilicata and Puglia. We saw countless Roman ruins, walked on miles and miles of cobblestones in the beating sun and ate more pasta than I thought it would be possible to consume. The food- simple, delicious home cooking at its absolute finest- was some of the best I’ve ever eaten.
There were some definite culinary themes running through our 12 days of meals, including (but certainly not limited to) orecchiette, broccoli rabe (including in pesto form), buratta (often tied off with an adorable ribbon), capicola, prosciutto in all forms, cooked chicory (I’m obsessed) and every single seafood you could imagine. Every day I ate fish, pasta and obscene amounts of cured meats and cheese and it was delicious from start to finish. I came home craving Asian food.
After nearly two days of rich carbs (none of which I regret), I started dreaming about bright flavors and raw vegetables. The first meal I ate when I got home from the airport was Thai from my favorite neighborhood place (papaya salad and jungle curry) and it hit the spot. It also got me thinking about this absolutely excellent dinner I made a few weeks before my trip. A refreshing summer meal, the chicken practically makes itself and it’s well worth the time it takes to make the little pancakes by hand. This would also be a fantastic, interactive dinner for friends on a summer night.
Step one is to salt and coat the chicken in spiced butter and oil extremely liberally. I don’t think it would be possible to overdo this step. Step two is to stick it in the oven, where it becomes a beautiful lacquered specimen that looks like something you’d buy hanging from a hook in a Chinatown window but you did it yourself in under an hour at home. Step three is to slather the bird in a simple soy glaze. Step four is to slice some cucumber spears and scallions. Step five is to make pancakes, which you absolutely must cook in sesame oil for the glorious flavor it imparts even though it has a low smoke point and will probably set off your smoke detector a few times. Step five is to pile up your pancakes, shred your chicken pieces (you can have people do this as they go), tuck in a few cucumber spears and top with hoisin sauce. The last step is to put it in your mouth and marvel at what you’ve created.
I know it’s a little unexpected to return from Italy with an Asian roast chicken recipe, but I just needed a few days where I didn’t think about or ingest pasta. However, I’ve cleaned out and organized the fridge and pantry, and I’m so ready to get back in the kitchen and share with you the treasures of Southern Italy. Stay tuned!
Ingredients
- 5 whole cloves
- 5 whole star anise
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
- Kosher salt
- Pepper
- 1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
- One 2-inch piece of ginger, thinly sliced
- 3 garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
- One 3 1/2- to 4-lb. chicken
- 2 tablespoons canola oil
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/3 cup plus
- 1 tablespoon boiling water
- Toasted sesame oil, for brushing
- Sliced cucumbers, sliced scallions and hoisin sauce, for serving
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 450°. Finely grind the cloves and 3 of the star anise pods in a spice grinder and transfer to a small bowl. Mix in the butter and season with salt and pepper.
- In a small saucepan, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, ginger, garlic, sugar and the remaining 2 star anise pods. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the glaze thickens, about 10 minutes.
- Place the chicken on a rack set over a baking sheet. Beginning at the top of the breast, gently separate the chicken skin from the breast and thighs. Season the chicken cavity with salt and pepper. Rub the spiced butter under the skin, spreading it over the breast and thighs. Rub the canola oil all over the outside of the chicken and season with salt and pepper. Roast the chicken for 50 to 60 minutes, until golden brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 165°. Brush the chicken all over with the soy glaze and let rest for 15 minutes.
- Meanwhile, in a small bowl, using a wooden spoon, stir the flour and boiling water until a shaggy dough forms. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth, about 5 minutes. Cut into 8 even pieces and roll into balls; keep covered with a damp paper towel. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll each piece of dough into an 1/8-inch-thick round.
- Heat a griddle and brush it with sesame oil. Cook the pancakes, turning once, until golden in spots and cooked through, about 2 minutes. Transfer the pancakes to a plate and cover to keep warm.
- Carve the chicken and serve with the warm pancakes, sliced cucumbers, sliced scallions and hoisin sauce.
Notes
https://www.thekitchenchronicles.com/2018/07/25/butter-roasted-chicken-with-soy-garlic-glaze/
